November 2nd 2023 – Thomasville, GA

The stay at Two Wheels of Suches did us good. The place was a real gem. It started as a dedicated motorcycle campground back in the early 90’s (Two = Two wheels only). The place is now owned by Bill and still going strong.We arrived at the camp Thursday. The place was relatively quiet.We spent the evening around a campfire with the other guests.Friday when the restaurant opened everything changed. The place was packed with motorcycles and riders. Some stayed at the campground. Most just dropped by to grab a bite or take a break during a dayride. There was a good atmosphere and I talked with a lot of nice fellow riders.

Saturday morning I sat in the coach and was about to watch the night’s MotoGP Sprint race on my laptop, when Bill came over to tell me that he was going to show the race on the big screen. Sunday morning a whole bunch of guys gathered after breakfast to watch the main race together. I enjoyed sharing my passion with others for a change.

We left Sunday late in the morning. At first the riding was great but as we traveled in a southeastern direction the terrain soon flattened out and the roads got straighter.

The weather was getting hot when we reached Aiken, SC. A cheap motel on the outskirts of town made us call it a day. We changed into shorts and went hunting for something to eat at the nearby grocery store.

On the way back to the motel we passed by a bookstore and decided to have a look inside. I commented on one of the other customers’ Scottish accent. That escalated into a conversation with him and his wife. Gary and Eva lived in Aiken and decided to give us a guided tour of the town. We quickly returned to the motel and dropped off our groceries before they picked us up in their car.

Aiken turned out to be a charming town with an interesting history – most of it centered around horses, golf and tennis.

The tour of town took us to The Willcox Hotel where Gary and Eva invited us for tea and dessert. We were mortally underdressed for the place but enjoyed the experience – not least because it allowed us to hear some of Gary and Eva’s story – an example of how reality sometimes surpasses fiction.

This is a very short recap:
Gary is a Scotsman who grew up in South Africa, Eva a Brite who grew up in California.
In their early twenties they crossed paths in Greece and became friends briefly.
8 years later a phone call reconnected them. At the time he lived in South Africa and she in New York.
A few days later he showed up in New York with a ring and proposed to her.
5 days later they got married in a church in the Bronx and spent the wedding night in the honeymoon suite at the Plaza Hotel.
Since then they have produced a couple of daughters and led very interesting lives in several locations around the world.
Among many other things, Garyn is a writer. Some of his work has been published. I’m looking forward to reading it. If he’s as good a writer as he is a storyteller I’m in for a treat.
It was a pleasure and a privilege to spend time with them and get a glimpse into their world.
They dropped us off back at the motel late in the evening.

We did another short tour of Aiken on the bikes before we left town the following morning.

Temperature and humidity kept climbing during the day. We stopped for a sweet lunch at Carolina Cider Co. The charming owner was dressed as a fairy.

Wetlands surrounded us as we approached Savannah across the coastal plains.

A cheap but cozy motel on the outskirts of the city would be our basecamp for the next 2 nights.

With the bikes safely tucked away we went in search of a laundromat and a grocery store. Before finding either we happened upon a Planet Fitness and decided it was time for a proper workout. The girl at the front disk sympathized and let us use the facilities for free.

It was well after dark before we returned to the motel with clean clothes, a good pump and a healthy appetite.

In the morning we got on a bus to get to Savannah’s historic district. It was Halloween. The perfect day to visit one of America’s most haunted cities.

Savannah blew us away! There were so many interesting things to see and people to talk with.

At one point we stopped to chat with Gail and pet her lively puppy. She was making and selling Savannah roses by the river. When she heard we were from Denmark, she asked if we were from the boat? Apparently a sail boat from Denmark was moored at the jetty. We went to investigate and met Louise, Kasper and their sons of 5 and 8 who had set sail from Denmark 2½ years earlier. They invited us aboard for a cup of coffee.

We returned to the motel late in the evening after a marvellous day in the city.

The weather had changed completely during the night. From warm and humid to cold and fresh.

The first half of the day was spent on straight boring roads surrounded by forest. Later in the day the forest gave way to Cotton fields and swamp. We had definitely arrived in the Deep South.

In Thomasville we were greeted by Josh. He had invited us to come and stay. His shop has an adjoining ensuite guestroom. Perfect accommodation for motorcycle travelers.

His wife Amanda joined us and we were introduced to the rest of the 2 and 4 legged household.

We enjoyed a lovely evening in good company.