November 25th 2024 – Valdivia, Chile

The hostal we had found in Concepción catered mostly for workers away from home and served a hearty breakfast. Both the bikes and us were fully fueled as we headed inland along the Biobio River.

It was a gorgeous spring day with winding roads surrounded by flowering fields and snow capped volcanoes on the menu.
A stationary freight train at a railroad crossing created long lines of cars in Victoria. Instead of waiting in line we went looking for a place in town to get lunch. When we pulled up in front of Indiko cafe the owner came out and greeted us like old friends. That was typical of how everyone has been treating us since we arrived in Chile. It makes us feel very welcome.

By midafternoon we arrived at a campsite by Rio Blanco a few kilometers outside of Curacautín. The place was enclosed by a bend in the river and lived up to its name “El Paraíso”. The owners Jaqueline and Leopoldo “Polo” lived on the premises and kept the place neat and tidy. It was still early in the season and we were the only guests.
The days are getting longer as we move south and towards summer. Late sunsets and pleasant temperatures make camping very enjoyable. We slept like babies with the sound of the nearby river as a lullaby.

Polo, who claimed to be a Chilean with an American heart, turned out to be a collector and a petrolhead with an inclination towards vehicles from the good ol’ US of A. He showed us his shop and some of the projects he was currently working on. Both his grown sons also lived on the property and shared his passion.

One evening Polo took us in his truck to a piece of land down the road to show us the crown jewel of his collection – a British railway carriage from 1921. He was in the process of restoring it and turning it into a restaurant as a gift for his daughter who was a chef. When it was ready he would move it to a location of her choosing.
The place where the carriage was parked used to be Polo’s parent’s home. It was where he grew up. One of his brothers now lived on the 75 acres of land. In addition to the carriage Polo also used the place to store several old trucks and a couple of containers with finished projects. One contained a fully restored Willys Jeep and a 80 years old John Deere Tractor.

After 2 nights in Paradise we broke camp and did a circuit around Conguillío National Park recommended by Christian from Casa Matte in Santiago. It was great riding and spectacular views from the word go.
We rode 4527 meters through a mountain. The tunnel was old and narrow, only allowing traffic from one direction at a time.

100 kilometers into the day’s ride, near the border to Argentina, the road turned to gravel. The road quality varied but the views remained immaculate.

The road was surfaced once again when it crossed a lava river. It requires a birds eye view to truly appreciate the size of the lava field created by Llaima, one of the largest and most active volcanoes in Chile.

There were a few spots of rain on the visor when we arrived in Villarrica after an excellent day on the bikes. They convinced us to get under a real roof for the night. An evening walk through town revealed Villarrica, located on the lake of the same name, to be a true tourist trap. It made it easy to find a place for dinner.

According to the weather forecast we had 3 days of heavy rain coming up. We considered waiting it out in Villarrica, but didn’t particularly like the town and decided to use the last dry day to relocate.
We had now reached Northern Patagonia and continued through Región de Los Ríos on beautiful country roads. The landscape, vegetation and small towns we passed through reminded us of the US with a touch of Scandinavia. It felt nice and homely.

We stopped for lunch at a charming little cafe in Los Lagos. It was a family business with the wife in the kitchen and the husband behind the counter. Their young daughter, who also wanted a piece of the pie, had set up her own little shop where you could buy a duck and a chocolate for less than $1. Who can say no to that? It was a lovely place with good food, cozy atmosphere and nice people. The wife used the opportunity to practice her English.

On the verge of developing diabetes we left town along the Calle-Calle River. The scenery and riding that had been great all day now stepped up a notch and stayed there all the way to Valdivia – the regional capital located at the confluence of the Calle-Calle, Valdivia, and Cau-Cau Rivers.

Valdivia turned out to be a great place to wait out the Rain.
We hit a homerun in regard to accommodation. It’s a small B&B run by Rafael – a nice guy our age. He lives upstairs while we have a room on the ground floor with an ensuite bathroom and direct access to a small garden and the garage where the bikes are safely tucked away. We all share a clean and neatly organized kitchen and a cozy living room.

The city and its friendly, curious and easy approachable citizens are an experience in itself.
Valdivia has an early Spanish colonial past. During much of the colonial period, Valdivia was essentially a military camp, a walled city surrounded by hostile natives. The coastal defenses and their garrisons made up a large part of the population. After several fires and earthquakes, nearly all buildings from this period were destroyed, with the exception of the military defenses. Valdivia’s best known historical landmarks are now the two towers which were part of a former city wall, built by the Spaniards to defend the city, known as Torreón Los Canelos and Torreón del Barro. A later history of German colonization explains the German-style wood houses, the Kunstmann Brewery and the town’s annual beer festival.

On May 22, 1960 Valdivia suffered the most powerful earthquake ever recorded, rating 9.5 on the moment magnitude scale. The Spanish-colonial forts around the city were severely damaged, many buildings destroyed, the rivers deepened and new wetlands created as the landmass dropped in some areas. Many inhabitants left the ruined city after the earthquake and Valdivia’s economy and political status declined.
That might explain why we experienced the city as a bit rough around the edges with a frontier kind of feel to it. A high noon showdown wouldn’t be out of place and a polar bear walking down main street would fit right in.