October 9th 2023 – Denver, CO
Mancos Motorsports had my bike ready Wednesday the 4th at noon.
Katrine and I picked up a load of cookies and muffins on the way to the shop. Dave, Brian and Noah deserved a treat for everything they had done for us. The bike looked good and rode well. It seemed like Brian had done a good job.
We expressed our gratitude to the guys, shook hands and returned to Chris and Stephanie’s place..
As we packed the bikes back at the house, Chris and Stephanie made us some delicious hotdogs on the grill.
By 2 pm we were ready to continue our journey.
It had been 15 days since we despondently pulled up in their driveway with a blown engine. We’ll never forget their hospitality, generosity and helpfulness. It turned the situation around. I would have preferred that the bike hadn’t broken down, but at the same time I wouldn’t be without the last 2 weeks experiences.
I’ve made new friends, had fun and been challenged in ways that I believe will help me evolve.
Katrine was dewy eyed as we said our goodbyes and resumed our journey.
The weather was perfect and my bike running well. I had a piston and cylinder to break in and was riding accordingly.
We checked in at a campground by the San Juan River just outside of Pagosa Springs. The weather forecast promised a cold night so we decided to throw in a few extra bucks to get a heated cabin. As we were scraping ice off the bikes in the morning we agreed it had been money well spent.
We stopped to fill up the bikes in South Fork. When we asked to buy a cup of coffee the attendant at the gas station urged us to visit “Tiny Timbers” a couple of miles down the road. It turned out to be a charming cafe with excellent coffee and pastries.
Fully fueled and warmed up, we embarked on the Silver Thread Byway.
The scenery is insanely beautiful. As we climb towards the Slumgullion Summit we get passed by 4 riders going at a brisk pace. I’m still nursing my new engine so no spirited riding on our part.
Above 11.000 feet the roads are still nice and dry, but the surrounding countryside has turned into a winter wonderland.
On the descent, oncoming cars flash their headlights at us. My suspicions are confirmed when we round a corner and find a rider down and a banged up HD by the side of the road. It was one of the 4 riders that passed us going up. The crash had just happened.
We pulled over and I went to check up on the guy. His footpeg had hit the ground and made the rear wheel leave the ground resulting in him and the bike tumbling down the road. He was conscious, but shaken and pretty sore. I told him that I’m a paramedic and with his permission I performed a primary survey. I didn’t find anything concerning and believe he got away with only a bruising. We helped him to his feet and stayed a while longer to make sure he was ok. His friends and brother seemed to have things well in hand and an ambulance was on its way, so we wished them luck and continued on our way.
A few minutes later we met the sheriff, an ambulance and a tow truck – all with their lights on – heading towards the accident site.
We stopped for a late lunch in Gunnison. Still at altitude and with another cold night in front of us, we decided to stay in town and rent a cabin at a campground by the airport.
It was yet another crisp autumn morning with ice on the bikes. After a brief coffee stop in Crested Butte the main course of the day was served: Kebler Pass. It didn’t disappoint!
In the afternoon we rode through Aspen before digging into the dessert: Independence Pass. At the top of the pass we reached the highest elevation on the trip so far.
We approached Leadville as the day drew to an end. At 10.000 feet, with the prospect of the coldest night yet and no campgrounds with cabins within reach, we decided to look for a room in town.
Inn The Clouds Hostel was the cheapest option. It turned out to be an amazing place to stay. They have both dorms and rooms. There are no chairs in any of the rooms. That is by purpose. It forces the guests to use the common areas which consist of a fully equipped kitchen, a dining room, a living room and a lounge in the basement with a pool table.
Katrine and I went for a stroll through town as the sun was setting. On our way back to the hostel we picked up groceries at a Mexican store. Katrine had to lay down as I cooked dinner. The altitude was getting to her. For the same reason she went to bed early. I stayed in the living room.
While I was editing pictures, writing my diary and doing other stuff on my pc, I was surrounded by my “roommates” playing board games, talking, playing guitar or preparing the following day’s adventures. The guest came in all shapes, sizes and ages. It created a really good atmosphere and I got engaged in conversation several times.
When I pulled the curtains in the morning it revealed one of the bluest skies I’ve ever seen.
Part of the plan for the day had been to ride to the top of Mount Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans). The previous night one of the other guests at the hostel had informed me that I needed a reservation to do that. A quick search showed that all the time slots of interest to me were fully booked. As a result we would arrive in Denver the same day earlier than expected.
I needed to do an oil change to both the bikes while in Denver. A few days before I had asked in the regional forum if a fellow inmate would let me do it at his/hers place. I received several generous offers. First thing in the morning I wrote a pm to one of the guys who had responded and asked if we could drop by later the same day and do an oil change. I received a positive reply a few minutes later.
As we were packing the bikes and getting ready to leave the Hostel two sweet old ladies came to say goodbye. Katrine had been talking with them when we arrived and again this morning. One of them suffered from dementia. The other one had taken her on a month-long road trip. It would most likely be the last chance for them to do something like this together. It was touching to see how they interacted. They gave us a very nice bottle of port wine as a farewell gift and were both close to tears when Katrine thanked them with a hug.
After a stint on I70 we followed road 103 and then Clear Creek Canyon into Denver. We stopped by Peak Honda World in Littleton to pick up what I needed for the oil change.
Stew @csustewy and his wife Jill greeted us in Wheat Ridge. Their 1150 GS had been kicked out of the garage to make room for the Rallys. They had an appointment later in the afternoon, so without further ado I started working on the bikes. Stew lent me a hand. I soon discovered that PHW had supplied me with the wrong oil filters (note to self: Check parts before leaving the shop). Jill offered to go to the shop and exchange them for the right ones while I was working on the bikes. Katrine joined her.
We always stock 2 extra oil filters, so I carried on with the oil change. Jill and Katrine returned just as the bikes were done and the tools packed away.
Stew and Jill did a big trip through The Americas back in 2011. They had interesting stories to tell. Katrine and I made notes. It was a pleasure to meet them and a big help that we could use their garage.
Both Katrine and I were so preoccupied while we were there that we completely forgot to take any pictures.
We rode through Denver and arrived at Debbie’s place in Parker. She’s an old friend of one of my sisters. I met her for the first time back in the 80s during my first visit to the US. It was good to see her again. She and her friend Jerry, who rents a room with her, are spoiling us rotten. We can live with that and share the portwine we received in Leadville as thanks. It’s a really good one!
Yesterday it was time to see how my bike performed after break-in and with fresh oil. I decided that Pikes Peak was as good a destination as any. We left Parker around noon.
We tried to reach Pikes Peak back in August 2012, but the road had been closed back then due to snow and ice. This time around the weather conditions were perfect.
After an hour on highway 25 we turned off at Colorado Springs, headed into the mountains and soon reached the toll both on Pikes Peak Highway.
There was only a short line of cars and after a tap of the credit card we were ready to commence the climb.
The ride was as fun and spectacular as expected. We stopped a few times to take in the views.
A couple of miles from the summit our progress was halted by a long queue. We rolled alongside the cars to the front where a ranger controlling the traffic, shaked his head at us, before waving us on. The traffic was regulated because there is limited parking space at the top. It turned out that there was plenty of vacant motorcycle parking though. Good that we didn’t wait in line for no reason.
At the summit we walked around to enjoy the views. 14.112 feet above sea level you are reminded to keep the pace down.
The ride down was at least as good as the ride up. It was only mid afternoon and we decided to take the scenic route back towards Denver. It took twice as long but was 10 times as fun.
My bike ran great all day. The engine was smoother and more powerful than ever before. There is still a way to go before I regain faith in the bike, but it seems like Mancos Motorsports did a good job.
Back at Debbie’s house we arrived in time for another overwhelming homemade dinner.
One of the plans for today was for Katrine and me to get a Typhoid vaccination at Walgreens, but they called this morning to cancel our appointment. We’ll have to find somewhere else to get that shot before we leave the US.
Tonight Debbie will be hosting a big family/birthday dinner. We are invited. While she is preparing the food and baking cakes we are doing our laundry and other chores so that we are ready to leave The Rockies behind in the morning.
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